Special discounts now live! Tap to view all partner offers.

Understanding Common Behaviours in Rescue Dogs

(with a focus on Romanian / overseas rescues)

Adopting a rescue dog is a truly rewarding experience, but it can also be more complex than it first seems. Many dogs from Romania and other overseas shelters have faced hardship from limited human contact to stressful living conditions. As a result, they may bring with them layers of fear, learned coping behaviours, and survival instincts.

These dogs are not “broken” they simply need time, patience, and understanding to adjust to a new way of life. By recognising the behaviours that are common in rescue dogs, you’ll be better prepared to support your new companion as they settle in.

On this page, we’ll explore some of the most frequent behaviours adopters may encounter such as resource guarding, trigger stacking, reactivity, shutdown, separation anxiety, and more. Alongside practical behaviour science, we also draw on the lived experience of those who have worked closely with Romanian and overseas rescues.

Our aim is simple: to help you understand what your dog might be feeling, why they behave the way they do, and how you can best support them to thrive.

Why Some Rescue Dogs Behave Differently

Street dog survival traits: Many Romanian rescues come from backgrounds where they had to survive on the streets. Caution, vigilance, and independence helped them live, so they may be more wary or reactive than typical pet dogs.
Lower stress thresholds: Unfamiliar sounds, sights, or changes can feel overwhelming.
Emotional safety first: Before training or commands, these dogs need to feel secure.
Progress takes time: Settling in often happens in steps, forward progress, plateaus, and the occasional setback are all normal.

Trigger Stacking

What it is
Trigger stacking happens when several stressors even very small ones build up over a short period of time. Each stressor on its own may be manageable, but together they push the dog past their threshold. Once over threshold, the dog may suddenly react (barking, lunging, snapping) or shut down completely.

Think of it like carrying cups of water: one is fine, a few are manageable, but if you keep adding more, eventually it all spills.

Examples of trigger stacking in rescue dogs

A noisy delivery van passing the window → then a visitor enters the house → then a walk in a busy area
Moving into a new home → meeting unfamiliar pets → being left alone for the first time
Being startled by a loud noise → an unexpected touch from a stranger → seeing another dog on the street
A stressful vet visit → travel in the car → arriving home to children playing noisily

Signs your dog may be stacking stress

Subtle: yawning, lip licking, panting, pacing, dilated pupils, scanning the environment
Body changes: tense muscles, tail tucked, ears pinned, refusal to move forward
Behavioural: avoiding contact, hiding, startling easily, over-reacting to small things
Escalated: barking, growling, lunging, snapping, nipping seemingly “out of nowhere”
Shut down: freezing, refusing food, hiding away, sleeping excessively

Why it matters

Stress hormones (like cortisol and adrenaline) don’t leave the body instantly — they can take hours or even days to settle.
If stressors keep happening before the dog has recovered, their stress “stack” gets higher and higher.
A dog that “suddenly snapped” or “overreacted” is usually showing the result of many stacked triggers, not just the last thing that happened.

How to help your dog

Go slow: Avoid introducing too many new people, pets, or places in a short space of time.
Allow recovery time: After a stressful event (like a walk in traffic or a vet visit), give your dog quiet downtime.
Safe spaces: Provide a calm area (crate, quiet room, cosy bed) where your dog can retreat and relax.
Routine and predictability: Consistent feeding, walking, and rest times help reduce uncertainty.
Watch for early signs: Step in before your dog hits crisis point e.g. if you see lip licking or tension, pause and let them reset.
Lower expectations: Don’t plan multiple “big” experiences on the same day. Spread them out.
Adjust intensity: Swap a busy walk for a quiet sniffy walk if your dog seems stressed.
Positive associations: Pair mild triggers with good things (treats, play) to help reduce their impact over time.

Resource Guarding

What it is: When a dog feels the need to protect food, toys, chews, or even people, they may stiffen, growl, or snap if someone comes near.

Why it happens

A natural instinct to protect valued resources
Past competition for food or space
Fear of losing something important

Signs

Freezing when approached
Hovering over food or toys
Growling, snapping, or blocking access

How to help

Feed dogs separately and avoid competition
Don’t forcibly take things away
Teach trade-up games: swapping the item for something even better
Praise relaxed behaviour around resources
Seek professional help if guarding escalates

Fear & Stranger Sensitivity

Many Romanian rescues are fearful of new people. This is usually not because they’re “bad dogs,” but because of their past experiences: they may have had little or no socialisation, lived in stressful shelter conditions, or even experienced neglect. When faced with unfamiliar people, they may:

Hide or avoid contact
Freeze or shut down
Growl, bark, or snap if they feel cornered or pressured

These are normal coping strategies for a fearful dog it’s their way of saying “I don’t feel safe.”

Tips for Visitors

Give space: Ignore the dog at first, no direct eye contact, no crouching over them, and no reaching out.
Be calm: Sit down, speak softly, and allow the dog to observe without pressure.
Let the dog choose: Allow them to approach on their own terms, if and when they feel ready.
Safe space: Always ensure the dog has a retreat (crate, bed, or separate room) where no one follows them.
Treats wisely: Don’t offer treats by hand too soon, it can create inner conflict (“I want the food but I’m scared of the hand”). Instead, drop treats on the floor nearby.
Slow exposure: Short, positive interactions are better than long overwhelming ones.
Respect their signals: Growling, barking, or moving away means “please give me space”. Respecting this builds trust.

Building Trust Over Time

Patience is essential: It can take weeks or months for some dogs to trust new people.
Positive associations: Pair new people with good things (calm presence, treats gently dropped, fun play once trust builds).
Consistency helps: Regular, predictable routines reduce stress.
Don’t force affection: For some dogs, being touched is overwhelming until they feel truly safe.
Celebrate small wins: Sniffing a visitor’s shoe, accepting a treat from the floor, or staying in the same room calmly are all big steps.

Lead Reactivity

Lead reactivity is when a dog barks, lunges, growls, or becomes highly agitated while on the lead when encountering other dogs, people, or even vehicles.

Why it happens:

- Frustration: The lead restricts movement, so dogs can’t greet or retreat naturally.
- Fear or anxiety: A dog may feel trapped because the lead removes their choice to move away.
- Overarousal/excitement: Some dogs just want to play but don’t know how to manage their big feelings
It’s not always aggression: Most often, it’s fear-based or frustration-based behaviour rather than true aggression.

How to Help a Lead-Reactive Dog

Increase distance: Keep your dog far enough from the trigger that they notice it but don’t react. This is called the “threshold.”
Reward calm behaviour: Use treats or praise when your dog looks at the trigger and stays calm, or looks back to you.
Use positive associations: Pair the sight of the trigger with something your dog loves (treats, toy, happy voice).
Keep sessions short: End on success before your dog becomes overstimulated.
Avoid punishment: Punishment increases fear and stress, making the behaviour worse.
Change the environment where possible: Walk in quieter areas while working on training.
Seek support: A qualified, force-free trainer or behaviourist can give tailored guidance.

Introducing a Rescue Dog to the Lead

Rescue dogs may never have worn a collar, harness, or lead before, so it’s important to go slow.

Start indoors: Let the dog sniff and get used to the harness/lead without pressure. Reward calmness.
Desensitisation: Clip the lead on for a few seconds at a time while offering treats, then remove it. Build up gradually.
Pair with positive experiences: Put the harness/lead on before mealtime, cuddles, or play so it becomes associated with good things.
Practice movement indoors: Walk around the house or garden before heading outside.
First outdoor trips: Choose a quiet, low-stress environment. Keep walks short and positive.
Patience is key: For some dogs, especially those from shelters, it can take days or weeks to feel safe with the lead.

Shutdown Behaviour

This is very common in Romanian rescues, especially after the stress of transport or when settling into a brand-new home. For nervous dogs, withdrawal is a way of coping with overwhelming change. Instead of reacting outwardly (barking, lunging), they “freeze” and shut down emotionally.

Why It Happens

Stress overload: Too many new experiences at once — travel, strangers, unfamiliar environments.
Survival response: In shelters or on the streets, being still and quiet kept them safe.
Fear of consequences: Dogs who’ve had negative experiences may avoid interaction to prevent “something bad” happening.

Signs of Shutdown

Hiding in a corner, crate, or behind furniture
Refusing to move, even when called or gently prompted
Flat, still body language (no tail wag, no curiosity)
No interest in food, toys, or exploring
Seeming “too good” quiet, non-destructive, never asking for attention

How to Help a Dog in Shutdown

Give time and space: Allow the dog to decompress without pressure to interact.
Avoid overwhelming situations: Keep the environment calm, with predictable routines.
Don’t force contact: Let the dog choose when to approach. Forced petting, eye contact, or handling can make things worse.
Provide safe zones: Crates, beds, or quiet rooms where the dog feels secure.
Encourage gentle engagement: Scatter food for sniffing, use soft voices, and reward any small signs of curiosity.
Celebrate tiny steps: Looking up, sniffing, wagging, or taking food are huge wins.
Keep expectations realistic: Recovery can take weeks or even months, patience is key.
Model calm behaviour: Sit quietly reading or working nearby, so the dog can observe without pressure.
Routine builds confidence: Regular mealtimes, quiet walks (if ready), and consistent caregivers help the dog feel safe.

Separation Anxiety

Some rescue dogs, especially those unused to home life, can struggle when left alone. Being suddenly separated from their new family may trigger panic because they don’t yet understand that their humans will come back.

Signs of Separation Anxiety

Barking, whining, or howling when left alone
Destructive chewing, digging, or scratching at doors and window
Pacing, panting, or drooling excessively
Toileting indoors despite being otherwise house-trained
Trying to escape confinement (sometimes causing injury)

Why It Happens

Past experiences: Many rescues have never been left safely alone before.
Change in environment: Moving from a shelter to a home can be overwhelming.
Attachment: Dogs form strong bonds quickly, especially if they’ve experienced abandonment in the past.

How to Help

Build up gradually: Start with seconds and minutes of absence, and very slowly increase the duration over days and weeks.
Safe spaces: Use crates, pens, or a quiet room where the dog feels secure. Keep the environment calm and predictable.
Comfort items: Leave familiar blankets, toys, or worn clothing that smells like you.
Provide enrichment: Use long-lasting chews, stuffed Kongs, or puzzle feeders to keep them occupied.
Practice short separations while at home: Shut a door between you and your dog for a few minutes to help them learn independence.
Keep arrivals/departures low-key: Avoid long goodbyes or excited greetings, which can increase anxiety.
Never punish: Anxiety-driven behaviours are not “naughtiness” they are signs of distress.
Seek help if needed: Severe cases may need support from a force-free trainer or veterinary behaviourist.

Over-Arousal / Overstimulation & Impulse Control

Some rescue dogs, especially those experiencing freedom and attention for the first time, can become easily over-aroused or overstimulated. This means their excitement levels rise so high that they struggle to calm down and think clearly. It may look like playfulness, but it often shows that the dog is overwhelmed and unable to regulate their emotions.

Why It Happens

New environment: Everything is stimulating and unfamiliar.
Lack of early training: Many rescues haven’t learned how to self-soothe or settle.
Unmet needs: Extra energy, stress, or under-stimulation can all spill over as over-arousal.
Human response: Rough play, lots of fuss, or inconsistent rules can unintentionally fuel excitability.

Signs of Over-Arousal / Overstimulation

Constant jumping up or mouthing hands/clothes
Zoomies or frantic dashing around
Difficulty focusing or following cues
Excessive barking or whining during play or attention
Trouble settling down after activity

How to Help

Short, calm play sessions: Stop play before the dog gets too wound up.
Reward calm behaviour: Praise or treat moments of quiet lying down, sniffing, or choosing to disengage.
Teach “settle”: Practice rewarding the dog for relaxing on a mat or bed.
Provide mental enrichment: Use puzzle feeders, stuffed Kongs, or sniff walks to tire the brain as well as the body.
Calm interactions: Encourage gentle strokes and quiet games instead of roughhousing.
Predictable routines: Structure and consistency help dogs feel secure and less frantic.
Controlled outlets: Provide safe opportunities for physical play, like fetch or tug, but build in calm breaks and clear start/stop cues.

Crate Training

Crate training is one of the most useful tools for helping your rescue dog feel safe and secure in their new home. When used correctly, a crate is not a punishment - it’s a personal den where your dog can rest, relax, and recharge.

Why crate training helps:

Safe space – gives your dog somewhere quiet to retreat when they feel overwhelmed.
Aids settling in – helps your dog adjust to a new home more smoothly.
Supports toilet training – dogs are less likely to toilet in the area where they sleep.
Travel safety – crates make car journeys safer and less stressful.
Reduces anxiety – gives structure and comfort when left alone for short periods.

Top tips for crate training:

Make it inviting – add a soft bed or blanket, a toy, or even a safe chew.
Go slowly – start with the door open and allow your dog to explore at their own pace.
Use rewards – toss treats inside so your dog forms positive associations.
Keep it short at first – begin with just a few minutes before building up time.
Never use as punishment – the crate should always feel safe and positive.
Be consistent – use the crate regularly, not just when you’re leaving the house.

Common concerns:

Crying or whining: Ignore brief protests, but if your dog seems distressed, go back a step and build up time more gradually.
Too much time crated: Dogs should not spend long hours in a crate balance rest time with exercise, play, and human interaction.

💜 Remember: Every dog is different. Some settle into crate training quickly, while others need more time and patience. With consistency, most dogs learn to see their crate as a safe, comforting space.

House Training

Even adult rescue dogs may not be fully house-trained when they arrive. Living in a shelter, on the streets, or simply moving into a brand-new environment can unsettle their routine. Accidents are normal at the start - but with time and patience, most dogs pick it up quickly.

How to support your dog:

Set a routine - take your dog outside first thing in the morning, after meals, naps, play, and before bed. Regular opportunities prevent accidents and help your dog learn what’s expected.
Reward success - use treats and praise immediately after your dog toilets outside, so they make the connection.
Handle accidents calmly - Never punish - this can create fear and actually slow down progress.
Supervise and limit freedom - until your dog is reliable, use doors, baby gates, or a crate/pen to help prevent indoor accidents.
Watch for signals - sniffing, circling, whining, or pacing can all mean your dog needs to go out.
Be consistent - everyone in the household should follow the same routine to avoid confusion.
Expect setbacks - even once trained, new situations (holidays, moves, visitors) may cause temporary regression.

Top tip: Using a keyword such as “toilet” or “go outside” when they toilet outdoors can help them learn to go on cue.

Remember: Patience and consistency are key. With the right guidance, most dogs - even those who have never lived in a home before - learn quickly and successfully.

Keys to Success with Rescue Dogs

Go slow: take introductions and training step by step.

Routine matters: predictability builds confidence.

Respect choice: allow your dog to approach or retreat.

Learn body language: watch for subtle signs of stress.

Patience pays off: progress is measured in small wins.

Seek support: don’t be afraid to ask for professional help.

When to Seek Help
If you notice worrying behaviours, don’t struggle alone. Reach out to a qualified, force-free behaviourist or your vet for guidance, especially if your dog shows:

Aggression that puts people or animals at risk
Persistent or extreme fear and anxiety
Difficulty coping with normal daily life
Sudden or unusual behaviour changes (which may signal pain or illness)

Further Resources

The Dog’s Point of View — guidance on Romanian rescue dogs
Romanian Rescue Dogs | The DOG's Point of View
Helping your Fearful Romanian Rescue Dogs - Webinar Recording

What’s the Difference Between Y and H Harnesses?

Choosing the right harness is one of the simplest ways to protect your dog’s comfort, health, and freedom of movement. Two of the most common styles are the Y-harness and the H-harness, but they work very differently.

At Thistle Paws Rescue, we draw on years of experience fitting dogs of all shapes and sizes. Here’s what we’ve learned about which harnesses really support your dog’s wellbeing.

Y-Harness: Comfort & Freedom ✅

Design: The straps form a “Y” at the chest, sitting lower on the body.
Natural Movement: Leaves the shoulders free, supporting a healthy, fluid gait.
Neck & Throat Safety: Reduces pressure on the throat and trachea, ideal for breeds prone to breathing issues.
Everyday Comfort: Perfect for active dogs, long walks, and dogs learning loose-lead walking.
Gentle Training Aid: Many Y-harnesses include a front clip option, helping guide without restricting.

For most dogs, a properly fitted Y-harness is the safest and most comfortable choice.

H-Harness: Control, but with Drawbacks ❌

Design: The straps create an “H” shape, with a horizontal strap across the chest and one around the ribcage.
Restricted Movement: That front strap can block the shoulders, affecting stride and long-term joint health.
Chafing Risk: The girth strap often rubs under the armpits, especially in energetic dogs.
When It’s Used: Sometimes chosen for large, strong pullers — but it trades off freedom of movement for control.

Both harnesses are safer than collars, but in our experience the Y-harness stands out as the kinder, healthier option. It supports your dog’s natural movement, reduces risk of injury, and keeps walks comfortable for dogs of all ages and sizes.

At Thistle Paws Rescue, we want every dog to enjoy their adventures with confidence and ease and the right harness is a big step in the right direction.

Harness Tips for Your Dog

Weight changes – If your dog is carrying a little extra weight or is on a weight-loss journey, choose a harness that’s adjustable enough to fit as their body shape changes.
Growing puppies – Puppies grow quickly (and often in unexpected ways!), so pick a harness with multiple adjustment points to give you flexibility as they develop.
Measure correctly – Always use the manufacturer’s size guide along with a soft tape measure (or string and a ruler). If your dog is between sizes, it’s usually best to size up for comfort.
Extra security – A harness with a tummy/belly strap can provide added security, especially for escape artists.
Unique body shapes – Dogs with broad chests, slim builds, or otherwise unusual proportions may benefit from a harness with more adjustment options.
Overhead sensitivity – Some dogs dislike having a harness slipped over their head. In that case, look for designs with a neck clasp that can be clipped on instead.
Freedom of movement – A harness with a wide shoulder opening helps your dog move naturally and comfortably.
Training support – Front-clip harnesses can be very helpful when teaching loose-leash walking.
Large dogs – Consider the strength and durability of the materials. Some harnesses are specially designed to handle the power of bigger breeds.
Sensitive skin – For dogs prone to rubbing or irritation, softer materials (like fleece-lined or padded nylon) can make a big difference in comfort.

Brucellosis Testing

All dogs coming through Thistle Paws Rescue are tested for Brucella canis before they travel.
This is a blood test sent to a DEFRA-approved laboratory in the UK, and no dog can legally travel unless this test has been completed and the result is negative.

The negative test result is always recorded in the dog’s passport before they leave Romania.

Retesting in the UK

If your UK vet has concerns or suggests an additional test, it’s important to understand that:

A retest is NOT a legal requirement in the UK.
Vets set their own internal policies, and these can vary widely.

Some vets may recommend retesting. It’s helpful to be aware that:

Retesting can cost anywhere from £30 to £300 depending on the clinic.
These tests can occasionally produce false positives, which may lead to unnecessary worry or overly cautious advice.

If a vet insists on a retest or expresses concern, we recommend asking:

How much experience they have with Brucellosis-positive (BC+) dogs
Whether they currently have any BC+ dogs registered at their practice
What management, care, or treatment protocols they use for BC+ dogs

This can give you a clearer picture of their knowledge and whether their advice is based on experience or general caution.

Support & Further Information

For adopters who want to learn more or speak with others who have experience with Brucella canis, the following groups are excellent resources:

Brucella Canis Information & Support Group - https://www.facebook.com/groups/brucellacanisinformationsupportgroup/?ref=share
Brucella Canis UK Support Forum - https://www.facebook.com/share/Ycgvn8y6XrCn2BEW/

We always encourage adopters to reach out to us directly if they have any questions or concerns. We are here to support you and your dog every step of the way.

Did you know a dog’s nose print is as unique as a human fingerprint?

No two are alike!

Page updated

Report abuse